Archive for the 'travel' Category

What’s it like living on the beach?

Ask most Costa Ricans where they went during the month long school break in June and July and hoards will reply: The beach. The rain stops in the Central Valley; off to the beach.

For two years, I owned a home on the beach and when the holidays come, I miss my little wooden house. All the romantic ideas I’ve ever had about the beach are true, especially on the Caribbean, my coast of choice. In the morning I’d walk along the beach and many days see no one except a few monkeys. The sea is clean and the horizon sucked me in like an endless vacuum of light. The kids loved the sand and our little town was as quaint as a little town in a snow-globe. (Hey, now there’s an original souvenir!) Life brimmed on every leaf, in every tree, and in each drop of water.

Though I did not live full-time at the beach, I got a taste of what it’s really like - after the postcards are sent. Since most vacation spots on the Caribbean are below the port of Limon, it is at least a five to seven hour drive. With kids, it’s a long ride. On the Pacific coast, there are a few spots like Jaco and Punteranus closer to San Jose. However, many choose beaches on the north Pacific and the drive becomes as long. A few places it makes more sense to fly a commuter plane. Living so far away from the city means deciding what you are willing to either live without or be content with fewer choices. You may have to settle for dial-up Internet while you wait for a year or two for DSL. If you depend on special needs services or supplies, do a lot of research before choosing your location. A routine trip to San Jose figures into most ex-pats budget that decide to live on the beach.

My home was a dream tree house. Half wood and half cement, both materials bring challenges. Wood means termites. Cement stays damp and brings lots of mold. The Caribbean rains almost all the time with several small breaks throughout the year. Closets are a no no. In a closed space, mold seems to grow in seconds. Beyond termites every home will have ants, cockroaches, geckos, spiders, more ants, of all sizes, scorpions, and of course mosquitoes. Since Costa Rica has cases of dengue fever, it’s wise to sleep with a toldo - mosquito net. Water supply is iffy, and often so low you can’t flush a toilet. Many people air condition at least one room where computer or other technical equipment is kept.

Petty theft is a problem at the beach. Keeping a guard up is just wise. There’s a lot of drug use. It comes with the territory. We were robbed once because someone staying in our guest room on the bottom floor didn’t shut the little wooden shutter at night. Though the guests lost cameras, phones, and clothes, thankfully no one was hurt. But common sense goes a long, long way at the beach.

What could be the most important thing to do before settling at the beach? Rent. Resist buying if you can. I’ve watched many-a-Gringo pull up stakes after a few years because one or more of all those factors I mentioned above proved too much to handle. Test drive the town and the area before deciding. It’s true you can sell, I did with some great help. In fact you may decide the beach is yours forever, but instead of Cahuita, you prefer Puerto Viejo down the road.

So why even go? We all know the answer to that: it’s the beach, and the sun, and the forest, and the monkeys, and the air. I could never breath enough of that fresh oxygen and plants and life growing on every tree and gate and wire and road. It’s incredible. Days on the sand, the kids would loose themselves in play and imagination and sticks and rocks. We lived very much in the NOW; the beach is all about the NOW. But it’s a lot of work, especially with small kids. Between those moments of surf and sand come the laundry, dinner, fevers, stomach aches, bug bites, whining, and all the other “regular-old-life” challenges. At a different time in my life, I would have kept my home, but single parenting two kids and one with special needs was just too much. A home at the beach demands a lot of on-hands care I couldn’t give.

My daughter must have been trading stories at school with her friends about who did what over the vacation because in the car she asked me out of the blue why we sold her house. I told her what I’ve written here but in the terms a seven year old can handle.

We’re going to go off and see volcanoes for awhile. Plus we’ll be going back to the beach. We’ll always be going back to the beach.

At least we made it home alive

Airplane travel is akin to pregnancy and childbirth: After some times has passed, I forget how painful it is, yet I end up doing all over again. I even get nauseas. Really, we are just cattle in the sky. Shipped from one ranch to the next. It is an amazing feat, getting us all there in one piece. The leg from New York was a long one. A one hour delay in the airport was nothing compared to the one and one-half hours sitting on the tarmac. I’d run out of things to do after an hour and watched the time tick away. Instead of landing at a reasonable hour, I became faced with lugging two - no three- exhausted humans home.

Once up in the air, we whiled away time looking at Coco’s new Ninetendo DS. The little Husky puppy can do all sorts of things that delight a younger brother. The meal came and I took all three (I did pay for three seats!) with the hopes that something would be edible on the compact tray. Addison was unable to eat anything, so he got quite pissed and tossed two of the trays in the isle. Coco was quick to follow by dumping her salad all over the airplane wall. The great thing was this was her first attempt at salad and of course she dolloped lots of dressing on top. I managed to recover most of the plastic wrapped items before someone stepped on them, and Coco found most of her lettuce pieces and wiped the dressing off the wall.

Then we sat with those half-eaten trays in front of us for 45 minutes. I perked up when the movie began. Then I remembered there was music on the headsets. Since the first flight had no movie, music, or headsets, I figured it was another airline cutback. I wrapped the headset around Addison’s ears. He began to rock out. Then Coco rocked out. It bought us enough time until the trays were taken away. As if on cue, Addison hit the wall and decided NOTHING would do. NOTHING could make him happy. Not even that little Husky. Then, I smelled something. Yes. He pooped. It was inevitable. Since the seatbelt light was on, I was stuck. I could deal with diaper rash, I couldn’t deal with changing him. Possibly the bowel activity calmed him down because he sat in his seat and began twirling his hair. This meant he was going to fall asleep. I buckled the seat belt around him and tucked a blanket against the metal arm rest. He zonked. Coco managed thirty minutes of sleep before landing.


When we arrived, I went to the immigration line and felt so content knowing we could go to the resident/citizen’s line. The tourist line snaked back into a coffee shop. However…..however…..I hadn’t gotten any forms. I asked the man for some. He pointed over there. I turned my head to see a gaggle of wandering tourists looking for someone, anyone, because they needed forms too. Since I was the only one who spoke Spanish, I asked anyone with a badge to help. Finally a guy gave me one.

Don’t I need three for my family?

He assured me no. After returning to the line, I was told I needed three forms. No one could find any, and it meant squat that I was the only one with children (let alone that special needs thing). I walked up to the counter with my properly filled out forms, and the man walked away. He walked away. So I began to change lines and just as he came back, I asked him if he was working or should I go to another line.

Whatever you want, he said.

Want? I wanted to be in bed and not have my child’s rear end caked with poo that surely by this time has given him an incredibly rash. I wanted to stop lifting and hauling and being around airplane things. I pushed the stroller back to his desk and watched him slowly address an envelope and put some things inside. Seal it and then walk around his office for a bit. Coco was having an uncontrollable shaky fit because she had never been that tired in her life. I felt as helpless as I did on the plane. Yelling at people who work in immigration cannot be a recommended thing, and I would venture to say possibly land you in a small room for a round of questioning. I took it as a challenge to stay calm. Even getting angry on the inside was only going to use up my last ounces of energy. All the people I’d help to get forms were through the line and picking up their luggage.

I was the LAST person to leave the airport from our flight. Back on the plane - I think it was when the dressing hit the wall - I swore I wouldn’t fly again. But I think anyone who has more than one child or has bought those airline tickets yet once again, understands all to well that it sucks us back in. As soon as I walked outside I smelled the fresh green and wet life of Costa Rica. Isn’t it funny how quickly we can forget the pain? Thank goodness or many of us would have been born.

Where ever I go, there I am all over again

I do believe there is someplace for everybody. Costa Rica is the place for me now. Though I love to come and visit friends and relatives, it seems that little Central American country has me wrapped around it’s finger for now. Most ex-pats make a trip home every year to reconnect and see family, shop, and possibly get a break from paradise. Costa Rica is wonderful, but getting away from even paradise gives me the ability to stand back and ask those same questions as to why I live where I live.

I try to imagine jamming Addison’s little limp legs into snow boots, and I can almost feel a panic attack coming on. Just that factor alone keeps me in Costa Rica. Then of course, there’s those wonderful nannies. It’s a shame the Western world has priced itself out of help for mothers. We need it. We deserve it. There’s more to life than being a mother. Costa Rica gives me a tad more of a chance to break away here and there and work, study, and develop myself as the person I can be here on this whirling orb of ours.

So good-bye to the old and hello to the new. For what is new will be old again. I guess then I’ll have to pack up the kids, and the blender, and peas, and stuffed animals and return to ask those same questions all over again. Because didn’t someone once say: Where ever you go, there you are. After it all, I’m still following myself no matter where I go.

It’s time to start brushing my teeth again

It’s amazing how much I let slide while traveling. Those golden moments I capture on the digital camera take over the entire scope of life. Plus there’s still the feeding of the children, I can’t seem to get them over that hunger thing. My teeth are caked with strange substances, and I wear the same thing over and over again. This is traveling. If you’re a traveler - if Costa Rica’s on your agenda or possibly Holland - you know what I mean.

Floss? That’s not really necessary anyway, is it?

Bathing? Well, we can stretch it out just one more day.

Greens? Isn’t ketchup a vegetable?

Ripping fingernails off counts as a manicure, doesn’t it?

I can eat ice cream four times a day, can’t I? And the children too?

But I believe I am finished. Toast. It’s not that I’m itching to be away from this place. Heck, there’s at least a few more weeks until it snows. No, I want to be home and be around my stuff. I want to once again be thrilled with dental hygiene. I want my kitchen and my refrigerator full of the strange, exotic food I like to eat like papaya, coconuts, and avocados. I’m tired of milling through a pile of clothes and debating with myself which ones are clean and which ones cannot under any circumstances be worn again until they are heavily treated with chemicals.

One more day until we fly again. I can see it now: Washing dishes after a lovely meal and sending the kids off to school. Yes. Back they go. We’re done with the tourist thing. It’s time to return to paradise.

Can you do this?


Home is where the heart is and the car seat is where the nap is. The lull of the car and the warm sun in back seat is too much for Addison. He conks. When we first started traveling, he took this luscious two hour nap on a bed. That was over last week when he decided not to participate in any sort of sleeping activity until 6 p.m. After dozing off for one-half hour, he woke up and proceeded to scream for two hours straight.

I give him tons of credit. He’s a champ, and he’s really putting up with a lot. He played quietly with all the toys grandma has in her secret chest for two hours while I installed the printer and wireless mouse (I so want that!) on her new computer. On the way home, he began this contorted yoga thing and fell asleep a few miles before I pulled into the driveway.

And there he stayed for another 45 minutes. When he awoke, he was not refreshed and again cried for awhile. He’s getting adjusted to our new schedule. Funny thing is, I’ll be throwing him back into his old routine in less than a week. Oh what we do to these kids. It makes me tired just thinking about it.

Once I really did feed a member of Matt Damon’s family

So, we did it. we be hung around a giant-sized mall all day waiting in lines for over-priced rides and scoped out stores for cute Minnesota souvenirs to bring home to friend’s in Costa Rica. In all the years I lived in Minnesota, I went to the Mall once. I was handed a map upon entering; got dizzy; left without buying a thing.

Now I go every time I am in Minnesota. I can’t help it. With kids, it’s easy. And they do have fun. Honestly, I’d rather be hiking along one of those trails I mentioned before, but with a chance of rain in the forecast and four antsy kids - it’s off to the Mall again.

What is it that draws us to stand next to giant sized, colorful, fluffy, strange, yet hugely popular animals or cartoons? Maybe this is the beginning of our inner drive to rub shoulders with the stars. After a few cuddly photos with Blue or Sponge Bob, the next thing you know, we’re telling everyone how we rode the elevator with Rob Lowe or saw Alan Page at a gun show or had Matt Damon’s mom over for dinner one night.


I’m just as much a sucker as the next mom or dad. I waited in-line for a photo shot and even encouraged Addison to give Blue a kiss. No, it’s not Matt Damon’s mom, but it’ll do. It’ll do.

Funny the 4th is just another day in Costa Rica

With so much going on in the States over the 4th of July, I would think possibly one could here it in Costa Rica. I haven’t been here over this holiday in a few years. It’s a nice time. Actually one of my favorite holidays: there’s no gift giving or worry about how moist the turkey is. I mean, who cares if the Bratwurst falls on the ground? It’s casual and fun.

I took the kids to a parade. We waved the flag, like all good dual-citizens do. After a swim and a meal at grandma’s house, I tucked the kids in just as the fireworks were going off.

Get down and kiss this

I set my foot on the trail and kissed it. Of all the things I miss the most about living in the States, trails - paved, windy, plotted, safe, and gorgeous - maybe is the one I miss the most. I took Coco and Addison to a trail along the Mississippi River.

Look Coco! I used to skate here with our dog!

I used to hitch up my dog - when she was younger and alive - to one of those flex leads. I’d hold on while she either pulled me or ran alongside me as I roller bladed. I described it to Coco. This is the great thing about kids: you can make any experience you’ve done seem like it was one of the greatest feats ever conquered in the world.

Wild flowers bloomed along the path. Coco touched the river and tried spelling it with the trick I gave her: M I crooked letter crooked letter I; crooked letter I crooked letter I; hump back hump back I.

The Mississippi is a grand national treasure I adore and miss as much as the trail that winds along it. We turned around after a long walk to start back for the car. Coco peered through the woods for a deer. I told her sometimes they hang out in the woods. As we continued on, a raccoon crossed right in front of us. Coco and I gave each other a high five. Addison whipped his bottle as he finished his last sip. It bounced along the path. What a perfect morning it was.

Funny little computer game cracks me up

Coco has been glued to her cousin. I can safely say this in almost a literal sense. For a week, Coco has followed her big cousin everywhere she’s gone. And her big cousin has been kind and, I believe quite thrilled, to have a built in friend. The two play this Ninetendo DS thing and “chat” and train their puppies, and bark commands to the tiny screen.

Coco bought the little machine in the first few days we were here. She used her own money. I’m hoping she’ll make some sort of positive connection to buying it with her own money rather than me doling out the cash. I’m sure some of that is in there, but at the age of seven there are still plenty of moments where she comes inches to destroying it. I try to let her be responsible for it’s care and up keep (it is cheaper than a real dog, or guinea pig come to think of it!), but I’ll see it laying on the edge of an arm chair or placed in a spot her seven year old brain thought was perfectly safe. This morning, she placed an Iced Animal cookie on the screen and traced it. I suggested possibly the oil in the cookie wasn’t good for the sensitive touch-screen.

As I prepared Addison’s spinach-salmon goo for his breakfast, Coco and her cousin talked to their puppies on the screen. One time, Coco said something and her cousin didn’t understand what she said.

Is that how you say stop in Spanish? she asked.

No, she replied. Coco told Lulu her computer dog to sit. Coco then turned to her cousin and asked:

How do you say stop in English?

The two girls looked at me as I laughed and laughed. This little game machine was well worth the money.

When I feel the urge to speak Spanish, I’ve decided to bark instead

Photo 287 summerIt’s summer as I remember it. The days are long. The days are warm. I get more of a tan here than I do in Costa Rica (unless we’re at the beach of course). The colors burst every where from the trimmed grass to the drying towels on the beach chairs.

The only thing that’s a little odd is that I want to speak Spanish to people, especially in stores. I have become this cultural mutt. I could never breed Minnesota out of my blood. Much of what I do and who I am is rooted in the backyards and screen porches of my past. Sometimes I feel like speaking Spanish. Maybe I should think about barking instead - being the mutt that I am.

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