Top Ten Things We Love about Costa Rica
Take a good look at this list. Jaleh Ruhe, one of my favorite free-lance writers in Costa Rica, gives a very individual spin to some of the pleasures others would not have thought of or found. Have you ever considered potholes as a plus? Or grandmas? How about Dober-bunnies?! Here are some of the most interesting and diverse to make the list yet.
Jale is pura Tica in one sense, yet brings an international perspective as she’s known it’s good to get out once and awhile (that includes the country!).
1. Bus Rides - Everyone wants a car, that private, immediate means to get wherever at any time. That’s what most people sitting on a bus would agree on. That seething, silent agreement gives each bus ride an edgy sense of purpose to the poor and the average. It’s the only time I ever see Costa Ricans read. Everything in Costa Rica has been elaborated to please a foreign market. Passengers on buses work their asses off to make that elaborated reality possible.
2. Simple and Satisfying - Beans are to rice what yin is to yang. Beans make you smart. Rice stretches the possibilities. In Costa Rica, when these two meet on dishes, they’re called “spotted cock” or “marriage.” Both sexy and responsible, this staple combination present in all school and worker lunches, comforts and sustains an entire country indiscriminately.
3. Grandmas - They remember when everyone had too many siblings, when Jaco was remote and Limon segregated. They’ve talked the mustache down since they can remember and bask in defeating the bane of machinsmo, for the most part. They can scare you to death with the darkest stories of ghosts and devils born of madness and cruelty, just to hug you back to your senses when the story is over. Television still amazes them.
4. Fat Fashion - Soft folds over the tops of tight jeans, broad backs squeeze into tiny tees, the more to love, the more to show, baby’s got back and front and everywhere in between. She’s hot and scandalous and can cut those skinny bitches. Bell-bottomed, hip-huggin, how-you-like-me-now, fashion fits fat here. It’s not always pretty, but it beats hiding in over-sized attire and crying over calories.
5. Mutts - Tico-weilers, Dober-bunnies, Chihuahua-terriers, the proud runts who evolved despite their tarnished pedigrees, lurking in markets, humping next to churches, scrappy as scrappy does, barking at nothing, driving neighbors crazy, whimpering behind walls, owning the streets, scaring most average Ticos, chasing after my bike )do they really thing they can get their teeth into my peddling feet?), they all smelled like puppies once.
6. Saprissa - I used to be a Liguista, red, black and proud. Then one day, on a bus of course, I figured I never go to Alajuela, I’m pretty fond of the color purple, I like the way goalkeeper Jose Francisco Porra’s eyes seem to always be crossed, and San Jose collects my garbage. I”d committed the ultimate act of football treason when I switched. It felt liberating, almost like playing the game myself.
7. Potholes - My car hates them. They send a shudder up my spine and a curse to my breath every time I hit them, but they remind me to slow down, lighten up, take it easy. When tough-guy asphalt made of tar and gravel succumbs to the gentle patter of raindrops, opens it’s pores, creases and collapses, it’s a leisurely, consistent and encouraging proof that nature can and will beat mankind’s control-freak ass every time.
8. Topes - Before Costa Rica became a haven for outsourcing and tourists, it was one big farm country. Rich soils from active volcanoes had to be tilled and seeded and the terrain has never been flat or easy. Horses and men, not soldiers and guns, will keep this country from ever becoming another American enclave. TLC or not, when the real Costa Ricans converge on capital cities riding dancing horses and drinking their fill, I feel safe.
9. NIcaraguans - Guanacaste was NIcaragua. Some say up to 40% of all Costa Ricas are Paisa. The don’t “take” Costa Rican jobs, they accept the hard work and low pay that nobody else wants . But they’re defeatists, ashamed of their history and too scared to challenge their national “immigrant” status. Like Costa Ricans, they need to quit blaming their government and start building on private enterprise.
10. Castros - 600 mts. north of the Coca-Cola bus terminal, Castros nightclub gets going around midnight. Costa Rica’s premier dance experience, Castros is both popular and elegant, the way salsa should be. Club goers swing to cumbias, slide to disco and shimmy to meringue. Nobody’s left out. Expert dancers guide the shyest and the stiffest to the jam-packed dance floor and make them feel like Fred and Ginger. Trainers and casual wear are not allowed.







